After struggling to find a tuk tuk driver who knew where the correct ‘bus station’ was, the fifth man knew so drove me across the city where I paid $5 for a seat to Robertsport in a shared taxi and waited. As with elsewhere in Africa no public transport leaves until it is full and the definition of full on this journey was two on the front passenger seat, four across the back seats and a boy of about nine in the boot (later on we picked up two more people, one rode in the front with the other three people and one on the bonnet).
After about half an hour of waiting the taxi eventually left and wound its way out of Monrovia into the countryside. The drive to Robertsport is split into two halves, the first half is on asphalt roads and the second on a dreadful dirt road, needless to say the first part passed without any dramas but not long after we hit the dirt road, we had our first breakdown. We pulled to the side, the bonnet was popped, a lot of talking and a few things seem to be discussed and after about half an hour the driver decided to check the water coolant, it was empty, a quick top up and we were on our way. Frustratingly after only about five-minute drive we pulled over again, this time with a flat tyre, the wheel was taken off in a couple of minutes but the spare we had was also flat and completely bald so we would have to wait for one to come from Robertsport, thankfully not long after another shared taxi came by with spaces so I jumped in for the remainder of the journey.
On arrival Robertsport was quite a bit smaller than expected, it was really just a large village spread along pristine white sand beaches, interestingly though there are only really two real options for accommodation. The first was a place called Nana’s who quoted me $100 for room or $50 to camp, not wanting to spend anywhere near that I went in search of the other place Kwepunha’s. I didn’t find Kwepunha’s but instead there was another place being built, I went in to enquire if by any chance they had any rooms available amongst the building site, it turns out they didn’t have anything but a tent could be erected and I could sleep there for $20, not bad for a night’s sleep on the beach.
I then chatted and had some lunch with a few of the people who live and work there, there was a Swiss, a Georgian, an Italian and a South African all who had their own reasons for being in Liberia, two of the guys had come searching for gold. My afternoon was spent walking the length of the beach and back, stopping occasionally to take pictures and watch fishermen launch their boats from the sand, and reading on the beach or the rooftop veranda. As the day drew on, I went back to the beach to watch the sunset, it was made even better that nobody else was on my stretch of sand.