We woke up to the sun rising in Ait Ben Haddou, and walked to the Kasbah on top of the hill. The little shops in the Ksar (fortified village) were just waking up as we made our way up to the highest point. The Kasbah offered views of the snow topped Atlas Mountains and contrasting desert village. We then wondered back through the Ksar to another view point with equally stunning views before crossing over some make-shift sandbag stepping stones back to our hotel.
We had breakfast on the terrace with a friendly cat and the morning sun as company before a local taxi came to take us to the nearest bus stop in Ouazarate, which was annoyingly 20km in the wrong direction. Once there we were able to get a bus back to Marrakech which left in 10 minutes time. The 5 hour journey through the mountains on the windiest route possible left us feeling not so fresh. We arrived in Marrakech in the late afternoon and made our way back to the Medina. We enjoyed another slightly dodgy address, which took us to the edge of the main square for the night. The room somewhat lacked luxuries and was akin to a prison cell. There was a sign on the shower door which suggested to pay £1 for a shower. We headed into the main square and had dinner at a stall of tagine and couscous to share. After some exploring in the souk we built up an appetite for a second light dinner of a pizza overlooking the square from a rooftop.
The following morning, we had breakfast in the sunshine on the edge of the main square and went on to explore the souks (Harri really enjoyed all of the hanging carcasses) and surrounding areas, including a mosque which was closed for 2 years of renovations! We then walked through ‘new’ Marrakech to reach the bus stop for our journey to the coast. 3 hours later we arrived in Essaouira, an old port town on the coast of Morocco. After our previous experiences of incomplete addresses in Morocco, we took extra care to search up the location of our next AirBnB before we arrived. However after calling the owner when we arrived at the listed address, we were soon told we were in completely the wrong place and had to get a taxi driver to speak to the host and take us to the address. When we arrived, we were greeted by the hosts friend and taken to a room in his apartment which had no lock, no WiFi, no real toilet or shower and the other side of town to the listed location. We soon left in search of somewhere else to stay…
We bumped into a man who offered us a room, which we happily took! In need of a glass of wine and some dinner we explored the streets of the old medina and found a lovely candle lit restaurant and shared some fish pasta before heading to a vibey bar for a drink.
Note to self – don’t use AirBnB in Morocco again.
Love, Harri xx